Panda Daytona is the name people use for a Rolex Daytona with a light dial and dark subdials. The contrast is the point. A black-dial Daytona is a different look, and it should not be filed under this name.
How it differs
The case and the bracelet are the Daytona case and bracelet. What changes is the dial. The main dial is light. The three counters are dark. The hands and the minute track have to stay readable against both. A replaced dial sometimes gets the contrast wrong: the counters are gray instead of black, or the prints sit off the center of a counter. You can see that without opening the case.
The bezel is the tachymeter ring. It is fixed. It is not a rotating dive bezel. People still call a gem-set bezel a different watch. That one is the Rainbow Daytona, and it is not this note.
Common mods
Bracelet work is ordinary. End links must meet the Daytona lugs. A gap at the top lug is the usual miss. Crystal work comes after a scratch across the center, where the chronograph hand travels. The new crystal should not lower the hand so far that it ticks against the dial. Movement work is the chronograph itself. After a service, run it for a minute. The center hand should start, stop, and reset to the zero mark on the subdial, not beside it.
What to check on a used piece
On a used Panda Daytona, check the bracelet end links where they meet the case, the crystal over the dial, and the movement. Then look at the dial in daylight. The light field and the dark counters should be even, and the lume plots on the hands should match each other. A mismatched plot is a hand note.
The notes for those parts are the bracelet, the case, and the movement.